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DIY dressmaking + crafts with Emily

The Eden coat from Tilly and the Buttons + tips for sewing with PU fabric!

Ever wanted to make your own raincoat but felt a bit intimidated by the patterns on offer? Then the Eden is for you!

This is the latest pattern release from Tilly and the Buttons – a classic anorak style jacket with raglan sleeves that comes in two lengths and with optional storm flaps. You can pick what type of closure you want with options of toggle buttons, poppers, with or without a zip. (Tilly is also selling pattern kits with all the fabric and notions. You can either making it up in a peacock blue or a parma violet purple like the sample!)

I was lucky enough to be one of the testers for this pattern!

Eden is a bit more involved than many of the other Tilly patterns but I think it’s a great stepping stone from the simpler designs. The instructions are as clear and easy to follow (as you’d expect) and the pattern pieces come together beautifully.

Fabric choice for this pattern makes a world of difference to the feel of the finished garment. A light waterproof fabric means you end up with something that’s more for summer showers and perfect for festivals. You can opt for a more durable wax cotton like the sample for a classic look or go for more warmth with a thick coating to make a duffle coat. Different lining choices can take it from feeling warm and snuggly to a quick dry cagoule.

I made mine out of a polyurethane/ PU coating fabric that I got from Like Sew Amazing last year. It’s got the cutest faux Orla Kiely style print over it – the girl with the sunflower glasses!

This type of fabric is the stuff that feels a bit like a tablecloth. It’s got a plastic coating bonded to a neoprene backing. (They can also come with a woven back too).

It’s not the easiest fabric to work with and I’ve got my tips on using it below! That being said, it was the perfect choice for making an adorable lightweight waterproof jacket!

My tips for sewing with PU fabric:

+ When ironing, use a pressing cloth and low heat and test! Being plastic, this fabric can melt so it’s best to check on scraps to see what works best!

+ Use a walking foot on your machine. This is quite a slippery fabric so a walking foot will helping to prevent it from shifting too much.

+ Use clips instead of pins to hold your pattern together – pins will leave behind tiny holes!

+ You can definitely use iron on interfacing where required (facings etc.). Just make sure to use the same tips as above and always iron on the interfacing side.

+ You don’t want to have to do too much unpicking because it’ll leave you with trails of little holes. Sew slowly and carefully and you’ll be fine!

I opted to keep things a simple as possible and opted not to add the optional storm flaps as I wasn’t sure how it would press. If I made it in something like a waxed cotton I’d have definitely added those cute details in!

I loved how mine turned out – isn’t this combo of the Orla print and a Tilly pattern just a match made in heaven?

It’s thin and lightweight and perfect for wearing to a music festival in the British summertime where it’ll go from hot and sunny to cold and rainy in a matter of hours!

Since the pattern release was announced, I’ve seen so many shops getting in beautiful waterproof fabrics like this! Here are some of my faves!

Sew Me Sunshine

The Village Haberdashery

Fabric Godmother

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  1. Eeek! I’m an ironing addict! You got an amazing result without using yours much, though – it’s a stand-out coat!

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