Self Assembly Required

DIY dressmaking + crafts with Emily

Spoonflower + Le 603 blouse // DP Studio

A few weeks ago I was asked if I’d like to contribute a new project for Spoonflower. After having used their fabric last year (to make this dress), I jumped at the chance to use them again!

After hours of browsing their gorgeous selection of prints, I ended up picking yet another astronomy themed print – I just can’t seem to get enough it seems! This time it was covered in constellations, moons, planets on a black background with a more whimsical feel.

When I saw it I knew it was the one! Hehe! I had a sudden idea of this print on a funky shirt (worn with turn up jeans and Chelsea boots). It would be the perfect transitional item that’ll take me from winter to summer!

I ordered the print on the Silky Faille fabric. Mostly because I was curious as to what that actually was! It is actually quite a thick fabric with a nice drape and a lovely handle but a touch more structure than I anticipated. (In retrospect I probably should’ve just ordered the satin…). But I didn’t let that stop me from making the shirt of my dreams!

I used a DP Studios pattern that I’ve had in my stash for a few months but never had the chance to make. This was Le 603 – a long blouse with these amazing gathered sleeves. I really love their designs (you can see what else I’ve made by them previously here and here) and can’t help going back for more! Their style is so unusual and their pattern cutting techniques so unique that I feel like I learn loads of new things from every project!

I made the shirt without any alterations. Though to be honest even if I did want to I’d have no idea how to tackle altering this one!

I chose to add the optional piping to the collar and the front and back yokes but left it from the button placket. I also only interfaced about half the pieces they recommend. It was all just getting a bit thick with too many layers so I used my own judgement to ignore some.

Now the most interesting thing (and difficult thing) about this make is the sleeve!

The sleeve seam is set in the inner arm (as opposed to underneath) and has gathers all along. The piping from the front yoke continues all the way along this seam too.

I’ll be honest, the construction was absolutely baffling. The instructions are sparse as well so it was a little bit of trial and error to figure out the correct way to get the sleeves in. I still don’t quite understand how I got them in… But I managed it in the end! (There’s so much satisfaction to be had from completing a difficult sewing task!!).

And here it is!

It’s come up quite long on me and I can’t decide if I love it as it is or if I’d be better off shortening it a tad. I quite like the idea of wearing it with shorts in the summer so it looks like a dress from the back and tucked into shorts from the front…

The only thing I hadn’t thought about before making this shirt was the exposed wrong side of the fabric on the sleeve. Spoonflower fabrics are custom prints which means all the colour is on one side of the fabric and the wrong side is plain white. Which on essentially a black fabric does look a bit obvious when the reverse is visible. It’s definitely something to think about before I make this pattern again! (Note to self: use a dyed fabric rather than a print in future for Le 603 blouse!).

That being said I still love it! I think it makes me look like a wizard!! 😂

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  1. I have this pattern and I’ve been hesitating making it up because my first pattern of theirs was a TOTAL FAIL. It was the Asymmetric Knit Top (which is not in their collection anymore) – I was so disappointed with that pattern I almost cried. I could NOT get it to work – I wrote to them begging for help and what they sent me might as well been from a couture Martian. I was convinced by the end that there was no way this pattern could work. So reading you had trouble with the sleeves on this blouse has definitely shied me away!! If YOU have trouble Emily I’m 100% convinced I’ll never get it right. I love your blouse – I wonder if you made it again in a very drapey cupro, silk, viscose and shorter – no piping – you might like it a LOT 🙂

  2. This is so cool 😎 the piping is great 👍 and those sleeves were worth the effort!
    I think the white showing on the wrong side isn’t so noticeable because of the white in the pattern 👍🙏👏

  3. Hi,
    Interested to know what size you did this in?
    You also mention you only interfaced half the pieces.. did you omit the shoulder yoke?
    About to tackle so curious 🙂

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