Earlier this summer I treated myself to some rather expensive fabric. A bit out of the norm for me (I tend to veer towards getting a bargain!) but it was a treat for having finished my Master’s exams! I purchased several metres of the most beautiful checked linen bouclé from The New Craft House which I’d been admiring for a while.

I decided I wanted to jump on that trend of the luxe loungey smart/casual trouser – think loose and slouchy through the leg but with a fitted waist, comfy and breezy but in a spenny looking fabric. I think I was overly influenced by my older sister who always seems to put together these kind of looks and always looks amazing!

I already had the By Hand London Jackie trouser pattern that I hadn’t made yet and knew this was the time to get it out. It had all the vibes I was looking for.

I opted not to toile because I’m lazy (don’t do this at home folks) and because I trust my measurements and sewing experience with regard to fitting myself. I checked the pattern pieces by measuring them to ensure they would be right/ comfortable for me which is a neat trick to test the fit.

Jackie is a wide legged, mid rise trouser with slant pockets, pleats on front and a turned up cuff. The trouser front pattern is a little annoying in that it comes as separate left and right. Which some people may prefer but I don’t. I always think it’s a waste of paper and I generally prefer to cut on the fold and make any adjustments to the separate pieces after. The pockets are the style with waist stays – so the lining goes all the way to the front fly – which I felt was unnecessary in a loose fit trouser (though you might feel differently!). I decided to alter them to be separate pocket bags with a facing that folds.

It’s a fabric hungry pattern with the wide legs but totally worth it. I made a U.K. 16 with alterations to the waistband and length. I, of course,chopped off a chunk of length as I’m short. The waistband I modified to be curved as I find they fit much better on my body. The waistband was going to be a touch on the larger side as it stood so I curved it by taking out a little bit of width in several places on the upper edge of the band. To do this I first had to cut the waistband to the correct width as the original would be folded at its upper edge and I would need to sew two together to maintain that curve. I then cut into but not through the piece at strategic places along the waistband – mostly where the side seam would hit.

After those adjustments it was an easy sew. As always I ignored the fly instructions and just did my own thing. That’s not to rubbish the BHL instructions but because I’m used to doing it a certain way and as we already established – I’m lazy…

With the remaining yardage, I decided to make a matching waistcoat!

I used the New Look pattern 6914 in view B omitting the faux welt pocket which I got on sale from Hobbycraft.

This one I did toile. I find Big 4 patterns are more hit and miss for me on fit. I made a wearable toile in a pink linen which I’m planning to make a matching pair of shorts for next summer. It’s a good thing I did as the boat definitely needed some small adjustments which I wouldn’t have wanted to worry about in my fancy fabric.

I shorted the waistcoat at the waist and ended up altering the princess seam at the bust for a more snug fit.

In my final version, I lined it with a bit of cotton I had lying around. As much as I love the linen bouclé, you definitely don’t want that sitting tightly against your skin for any length of time!

I love these trousers even more than I thought I would and actually I do think the higher fabric cost is justified here. The weight and drape of that linen just wouldn’t be easily replicated and I think that those qualities are a big part of the reason they worked so well. These are definitely secret pyjamas – just so so comfy.

The waistcoat is a bit meh in my opinion. I think maybe I just don’t like the trend as much as I thought I would! I went through a phase in my early uni days of loving waistcoats so thought I’d love them again but not so much… These trousers get worn with pretty much everything else – tees, sweaters, shirts and looks great without it!