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DIY dressmaking + crafts with Emily

The Hayley dungarees // Hello Workshop

I can’t resist a dungaree pattern!

When Hello Workshop asked if I’d like to try out a pattern I was actually planning to say no – I’m kinda busy at the mo and wasn’t planning on taking on any more projects – but when I flicked through their collection and saw the Hayley dungarees I just couldn’t say no!

It’s a really simply styled dungaree with straight legs and cut in one piece (i.e. no waist seam). The sample looked really good on the the model!

When I got the pattern I’ll admit I had mixed feelings. The instructions are really basic (their choice as they assume you have some sewing skill) and I wasn’t a fan of their finishing technique.

That being said, I still liked the simple shape and I knew I could easily make adjustments to make them how I would wanted them.

So the first thing was to create facings to finish the upper edge of the dungarees. The instructions recommend just folding over and top stitching to finish but I knew I would be unhappy leaving it lile that.

To create facings I traced over the top part of the dungaree pattern, removed the seam allowance on the CF/CB line and drew a line about 7cm away from the top edge. This gave me two facing pieces (front and back) which I could then cut on the fold.

I also planned to add a few more pockets to the pattern!

It only comes with a large pocket for the bib but that’s nowhere near enough for my liking! I chose to add two back pockets and also side seam pockets to improve the functionality for me. I used pocket pattern pieces from other patterns for these.

The last adjustment I made to the pattern was to the back where the straps are attached. The pattern is cut straight across which means the straps won’t sit flat against my back when worn. I trimmed the pieces to create a slight angle which allows the straps to come out at a V angle and to sit properly. (Anyone who’s made the Tilly and the Buttons Cleo pinafore will know what I mean!).

I found a lovely lilac denim from Sew Me Sunshine for this project. It’s a mid weight denim with a slight stretch and perfect for a summery make!

The pattern recommended 2.8 metres of fabric for all sizes so I got 3 metres as you do. I ended up with over a metre leftover having cut the second largest size – just bear that in mind when you’re buying fabric for this one.

Sewing up is really straightforward. The centre front and back seam are sewn first. I chose to overlock then topstitch these to give them a more traditional denim feel. I then put in all the patch pockets and attached the side pockets before sewing up the inseam and side seam.

The very last change I made to the pattern was to put little loops onto the top of the bib – one on each side. I wanted to recreate the Lucy and Yak dungaree style of closure which involves long straps tied to these loops.

I basically just made belt loops and sandwiched them between the main body and the facing.

These are so comfy and cool and this colour is perfect for this summer! (I’m all about the lilac at the mo!).

I do wonder if I look too much like an overgrown toddler in them though!!!

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  1. Thanks for this, very useful Blog. I love the looks of this pattern, but my first thought was “not enough pockets” 😉 Thanks also for the tip on the shoulder straps, will definitely bear that one in mind.

    1. Apologies for the late reply! It’s probably too late but I would probably size down though an easy way to check is to measure areas (hips, thighs etc) with a tape measure and check it against your body to see if it’s got the ease you want. It’ll also depend on your fabric as the stiffer the fabric, the more ease you may want! x

  2. Hi, thanks for this helpful hack! Please can you explain the facing. Is the measurement taken just from the very top of the bib or does the facing go all around the sides and side waist? Sorry, this is my first attempt at a pattern!

    1. It goes all the way around! I took the top of the front and back bib area and traces around here, eliminated the centre front/ back seam allowances but kept the side seams. Hope that helps!

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