Self Assembly Required

DIY dressmaking + crafts with Emily

The Orchidée Blouse // Deer and Doe

AD – I was gifted the pattern and fabric from Deer and Doe and Minerva respectively, in exchange for an honest review!

I’ll be honest, I normally steer clear of vintage styles – and the new Orchidée pattern from Deer and Doe definitely lands in that category in my books – it’s never really been my thing! But there was something about the style lines of this pattern that just seemed to speak to me! I chose to make the blouse version of the Orchidée as I could see it working really well with jeans or shorts for the summer as a contemporary way to wearing a more retro look.

The pattern comes as a dress or blouse with gathers at the shoulder and waist, a fitted waistband and bit elbow length puffed sleeves. It has tiny buttons up the front with a “bridal loop” button band, though the dress version also includes a side zip to be able to get in and out of it. Both versions use the same bodice, waistbands and sleeves with the variations below the waist of either a ruffled hem for the top or a long full skirt.

I used a soft and drapey Atelier Brunette viscose for the outer shell and a cotton/silk voile for the lining. I was concerned about the double layer of gathers (main fabric + lining) so I opted for a much lighter weight lining to reduce bulk. I cut a size 44 and took out 1.5cm of length to suit my short height and narrowed the shoulders just a touch. I find Deer and Doe patterns generally fit me really well and just need a little bit of shortening to be perfect!

I loved the finish of the blouse as the bodice is fully lined with all the seams enclosed. The bridal button loop was a new technique to me and although it was very fiddly to do, I really appreciated the final look it provided. (It might not be a technique I’ll use often but I like knowing that I know how to make it!).

I didn’t expect the finished blouse to be quite so cropped (probably exacerbated by my bodice length adjustment) – so be warned if you’re making the blouse version yourself! It would be easy enough to make this longer by just lengthening the hem ruffle as needed. As it is, it’s perfect with high waisted jeans which, luckily, are the only type of jeans I own!

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